Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Pisa and the Field of Miracles

On my way to back to Cinque Terre, I decided to make a pit stop in Pisa. Rick says it’s worth seeing, but not worth staying. I’ve got a whole day to travel about two hours, so it makes for a perfect little filler for my day.


When I arrive in Pisa, I check my bags and decide to walk through town to reach the Field of Miracles (where the town’s meager four sites are all held). I stroll through the streets and note that it looks pretty much exactly like Florence. There are even a few intersections that make me do a double take and I have to remind myself I’m not in Florence.

I follow Rick Steves’ guided tour through town and enjoy a local fresh fruit and veggie market (where I picked up a pear both for the calories and the romanticism) as well as a historic view of the “old town” and a small, quaint, often overlooked church near the city center. Soon I arrive at the Field of Miracles and, as promised, it is a conglomerate of tourists and the junk people try to sell them.
The four main structures of the Field are the church (Duomo), the bell tower (the famous leaning tower), the Baptistry, and the Cemetery. Rick contritely points out that these building represent the main events in every Pisan’s life: christened in the Baptistry, married in the Duomo, honored in ceremonies at the Tower, and buried at the Cemetery. It’s a whopping 15 EU to climb the leaning tower, so I decide that it’s not worth the price of a month at the gym to climb the stairs – I’ve done plenty of climbing and I’m sure I’ll do more. The 5 EU combo ticket to see the Duomo and the Baptistry is more in line with both my budget and my mood.

I see the Duomo first and am again impressed with the elaborate art that decorates the interior; they sure take that responsibility seriously. This time pictures are allowed, but I’m not particularly inspired. I snap a few anyway, because I know if I don’t I’ll regret it, and am soon ready for the Baptistry.

At first glance, the Baptistry is comparatively dull. It’s one room with an enormous dome capping the top – but there is a serious lack of frescos or paintings of any sort on the walls. There is an elaborate pulpit carved from stone, similar to the one I had just scrutinized at the Duomo, only a bit simpler to understand, as well as a baptismal font. The echo in there is incredible – Rick said it lasts for 10 seconds. So even though there are only a few people in the Baptistry, it feels crowded with all the scuffling noise. I soon notice that I can climb a flight of stairs and get a bird’s eye view (see? I told you I’d climb more stairs!)

After I’ve done a few laps, I decide to take a seat and see what Rick actually has to say about this joint. I read the info a little more clearly and am surprised to see that at every half hour a guard sings in the dome to demonstrate how acoustically perfect it is. He says that by singing three notes, a person can actually sing a chord by him/herself, creating eerie harmonies. Now that is something I’d like to hear! Unfortunately, I must have just missed it, as it’s about 10 after the hour (of course). So I find a spot to hole up for 20 minutes and wait it out. What else have I got to do?

Sure enough, 20 minutes later I’m rewarded with 5 minutes of some of the most incredible accapella singing I’ve ever heard. About half way through, an Asian couple near me starts “whispering” to one another and I try to give them the look of death to get them to shut up, but they don’t see me. A-nnoying! It then occurs to me that I have video on my camera and I could be recording this incredible phenomenon for all of you to hear for yourselves. But of course the minute I hit record, the final echo dies out. D’oh! Well, it’s the thought that counts, right? Just take my word for it – if you’re ever in the neighborhood, you should really check it out. It was definitely worth the 20-minute wait.

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