Venice - Last Day

For my final day in Venice, I decided to give the sights a chance. So far I had mostly spent my time being lost in the city and/or shopping. I figured, several million people love this city, perhaps I ought to see what some of the infamous hub-a-bub is all about.

I got up early and out of the fosterria (church-hostel-y-thing I was staying at) by 9:30 so I would be among the first of the day to be let into St. Mark's. Even though I had visited the church already, the experience was less than satisfying. Besides, after a particularly good email description from my mom about how it seemed "the walls were steeped in prayer" I felt a return visit was mandatory.

As I stepped out of the fosterria and into the narrow walkway I discovered it was a foggy and nearly rainy day. This cheered my mood instantly. It's counter-intuitive, but having spent my entire life in the Pacific Northwest, a little downcast weather is always good for my soul. Suddenly, I felt right at home.

The weather was doubly advantageous as it significantly decreased the size of the crowds. Yes, things were definitely looking up. And look up I did, right into the golden mosaics that St. Mark's has to offer. This time (without the mobs of people thrusting me forward) I was able to see what Rick Steves (and my mom) were talking about. I discovered both the story of Adam and Eve as well as the depiction of Noah, which I had been unable to find* the first time around.

The interior was still roped off in a one-way, brief path through the church, but this time I opted for the 4 EU detour to see the original bronze horses and "museum" in the upper level of the church. What I didn't know was that this detour also offers you bird's eye views of both the interior of the church as well as of Piazza San Marco. Well worth the price of a spendy cappuccino and a steep stair climb. So this is what everyone was talking about....

From there I headed over to the Ducale Palace (or Duke's Palace). This was a bit pricey to enter, but relatively fun to tour. I saw the world's largest oil painting (Jesus and Mary surround by 500 saints in heaven), a revolutionary sculpture of Adam and Eve, and a whole other host of priceless works of art.

The Correr Museum (included in the cost of the Ducale Palace) ended up being a total bore (not worth it at all, in my opinion) and after about 10 minutes I made it a speed-walking tour (too bad it's not like Ikea with those convenient short cuts....). As planned, from there I headed for the Accedemia Bridge and settled in for a quick lunch before setting off again to find the Frari Church. Unfortunately, even after asking for directions three separate times, it eluded me. In fact, I somehow ended up back at the train station. (If you've been to Venice before, you know that St. Mark's is NOT near the train station.) So I gave up, hopped on a vaporetto (sans ticket - forgive me!), successfully navigated my way back to the fosterria, grabbed my bags and got right back on a vaporetto (with a ticket!) to the train station. Whew! It had been a full day.

All in all - Venice was a tough one for me. The feeling of complete and total disorientation was uncomfortable and I certainly didn't adjust well to it. However, I came to appreciate the nooks and crannies of Venice. Each "neighborhood" (for lack of a better word) had its own distinct pulse and personality. I can appreciate that. And as I began to learn my way through the twisty, turn-y lanes, I caught a glimpse of how tourists must appear to the natives: both a source of amusement, as time and again you watch them take a few steps in one direction, scratch their heads, consult their map, and then determinedly change course; as well as a source of frustration, as they walk in gaggles two or three deep in a three foot wide ally effectively blocking your passage, or slowly, slowly...slowly coming to a stop and becoming a speed bump right in front of you. They make you smile knowingly as you casually walk past, as well as grit your teeth as you (hopefully) politely walk around. And in fact, all of this I liked more than what people usually flock to Venice to see. However, I can't say I particularly liked Venice. But then, I can't say I didn't like it either. I'm not sorry I visited, but I'm also not sorry to go. My feelings about the city are completely luke-warm; a strange and completely unanticipated conclusion. Let's hope the other big cities on my itinerary don't leave me feeling similarly unfulfilled.

*Largely because I was looking in the wrong place. I still blame the crowd.