Thursday, November 20, 2008

And by Capri, I mean Pompeii

When I wake up the following morning (today!) I am determined to make something of the day. While it was kind of nice to not have an agenda yesterday, I can also tell I’m feeling restless. So I pry myself out of bed at 10am (aren’t you proud?) and am out the door by 10:30. I’ve actually planned enough time to a) get breakfast b) get cash and c) get to the ferry on time.

However, when I walk outside, it’s raining. Booo. This does not bode well for riding a chair lift over the island to see it in all its glory. I head to the TI to confirm that it’s a bad idea to go to Capri today and the girl there recommends I try tomorrow instead. Besides, I can take all my bags with me and go straight from Capri to Naples. Seems like just as good of an idea as going from Pompeii to Naples (which was my original plan), so I decide to just switch them around. I will see Pompeii today and Capri tomorrow.

If you don’t already know, Pompeii is an ancient city that was completely engulfed when Mt. Vesuvius blew and covered the entire city in lava and ash, killing all its residents and freezing the moment in history. They have since excavated it, and the product is quite the sight to see.

I wasn’t necessarily interested in ancient remains, but Rick gives it three triangles (his highest rating) so I figured it was worth a shot. When I arrived, I opted not to get the audio guide as a) I was already paying 11 EU just to get in and b) Rick had a self-guided tour. And I’m learning that as long as I have some information about a place, I’m usually satisfied. It’s when I know nothing about it I feel like it’s a waste. So RS is good enough for me.

The self-guided tour is actually excellent (except for one navigational error that lasted at least 20 minutes) and I take my time combing through the ruins. The tour even finishes with a big theatre, a little theatre and an amphitheatre; you know I loved that. (Here are some highlights for your viewing pleasure.)
Check out the volcano in the background: that's what decimated the city in the first place.

After the ruins, (which I’d only rate as two triangles, btw) I was feeling so good about being such a good tourist (and the day had gotten so nice!) I contemplated trying to squeeze Capri in today. But alas, it was almost 4:00 and I only had about an hour of sun left. There was just no way to make it work.

I kill some time in the afternoon with the internet, getting some gelato as a pre-dinner snack and some free munchies at a nearby bar. Finally I head to Luigi’s for dinner (Franco told me the day before he would be closed today). But when I get there (a full hour after his opening time) there is no one there. Rats. Do you mean to tell me I have to find someplace new?? Boo! (Hiss, even.)

So I try the next place on Rick’s list, but it’s only okay. I have the pizza, but I don’t finish. I head back to Luigi’s and now he’s there. (Augh.) So I pop in to say hello and buy a bunch of wine from him because, well, I like him and Franco, and it’s a good deal. I take the wine home, check my email to see if my Positano friend has responded (he has, but isn’t sure if he is available – so basically, he hasn’t), and feel like it’s too pathetic to spend my last night in Sorrento in my room with my computer, so I head back out.

I don’t know what I’m going to do or where I’m going to go, but I’m starting to feel a little sorry for myself as it’s been two whole days without any social interaction (I think I scheduled a wee bit too long in Sorrento…either that or I’m just ready to come home).

I find myself at the English Pub where I had my tea way back at the beginning of the week when I was feeling terrible. The waiter (Ali from Morroco) remembers me and immediately, I’m already glad I came.

Turns out I’m the only person in the bar, but I don’t care. I chat it up with all three of the people on staff and spend a few hours laughing the time away. They educate me about how Italian men think (only about sex) and inform me that I’ve been “wasting my time” while in Italy (because I’m not having sex at every opportunity). I try to argue that I’ve been enjoying the food and the company, but Raffale (the old man of the group) isn’t convinced: I’ve wasted my time. Hahahhaah!

In the end my two glasses of wine and toasted sandwich are free. They make me promise to come back when its warm and I tell them I’ll do my best (I would certainly love it!) I saunter back to my hostel and watch the end of Gladiator* in Italian with the concierge. All in all, a pretty good day.

*Speaking of Gladiator, did you know that the little boy who plays Russell Crowe’s son in the movie is the same little boy from Life is Beautiful? True story.

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