Dinner in Sorrento

When I arrived in Sorrento and got off the train, I was so relieved I hadn’t been mugged (Naples has a terrible reputation and I had to switch trains from the main line to a small commuter) that probably any town would have looked like gold to me. But I stand by my original analysis: Sorrento is a clear winner.

From the train station I walked through town, taking in the zillion picturesque shops along the main drag, until I found the hostel. Technically this place calls itself a hostel, but when I walked in, it was more like a 4-star hotel. The glass door slid open to reveal a marble-tiled reception area complete with plush couches and a suit-wearing concierge. “Uhh, do you have a bed available for tonight?”

A few moments later I was standing in my new, tiny room complete with its own bathroom and a list of the spa treatments in my hand. My 20EU had really gone a long way! The bed was a bunk bed, but, at least for tonight, I had the luxury of the room to myself. So I settled in, made my bed, and directed my steps back toward town. It had been a long train ride and even though my stomach wasn’t 100% yet, I knew I needed to eat.

I set my steps directly toward the first non-splurge food listing Rick had. When I find it, I know I’m in the right place. A short, slender, fatherly-type man greets me immediately and lets me choose a table. As soon as I’m seated, he brings me bread, olive oil, vinegar, and balsamic vinegar. I’m in the mood for gnocchi, but when I see seafood risotto on the menu, I order it on an impulse instead. I throw in a fresh salad of tomatoes as well and eagerly await my food.

I keep myself more than occupied with my bread and cute, old man brings me a fat slice of soft, toasted bread with minced tomatoes and garlic hot on top. Mmm! Soon my food comes out and I dig in. Everything is delicious and my enjoyment of it is hindered only by my observation of a table of two Italian gals not far away.

Part way through my meal, I notice that one is speaking in a lowish voice, while the other is laughing and laughing and all the while they are stealing looks at me. Even though I don’t know what she’s saying, it’s clear they’re laughing at me. I feel extremely self-conscious, but I don’t know what I could possibly be doing that would solicit such malicious attention, so I try to ignore them. But at one point I look up and they’re both looking intently right at me. So I stop and look back. It is almost to the point that I’m about to say, “What is your problem?” and walk over there, ready to start a cat-fight, but they finally look away.

Needless to say I was a little uneasy for the rest of my meal, but I tried to simply ignore them. I was in Italy with a great meal in front of me and I wasn’t going to let two stupid girls ruin that (especially because I had NO idea why they would be so interested in me). Eventually they finish their meal and leave and I’m so relieved I can actually feel my body relax at the lack of their presence. But I too am essentially finished with my meal and before long I request the bill. When it comes, it is served to me along with a small portion of limoncello – a lemon liquor that is a favorite in Italy and made right here in Sorrento.

Being as this was my first taste ever, I was quite excited. I took a sip and as I held it on my tongue, I was surprised to find it quite sweet: delicious indeed! But then I let it roll to the back of my mouth to swallow and – yow! Boy is it ever sour! The experience could not be any more authentically lemon. In fact, it is such a thorough demonstration of flavor, I felt as though I could taste the peel on my breath as I exhaled.

On the whole I’m pleased both with dinner and my first limoncello and tell my waiter as much as I make my way to the door. Despite the mean girls, it’s been a good first night in Sorrento.